Sake. Bathing, fighting and just plain drinking

Some are bathing in it while others are drinking it. Japanese Geishas used it with rice to exfoliate their face, detoxify their bodies, and smooth their skin.

Some are bathing in it while others are drinking it. Japanese Geishas used it with rice to exfoliate their face, detoxify their bodies, and smooth their skin. Even today, women searching for their inner Geisha are spending US$80 for a Fresh Sake Bath which brings real sake (38 percent) along with fruit, pine, and ginger extract to their toilette. During World War II, kamikaze pilots drank sake prior to carrying out their missions.

Sipping Sake. The Sake Way
Who knew there was a right and wrong way to drink sake? Unlike other beverages that are poured into a glass, the sake way dictates that the beverage be poured into a traditional masu (wooden box cup) or ochoko/sakazuki (small ceramic cup) that is carefully held in two hands: one hand balances the bottom of the vessel while the other hand caresses the side. Traditionally, the host pours sake into the guestโ€™s cup or the person of โ€œlesser statusโ€ (i.e., an employee) pours the sake into the cup of the โ€œboss.โ€ Today the goal is that your friend’s glass is never empty and in return, yours should never be unfilled.

TMI. Too Much Information
There is so much history and ritual surrounding the discovery, development, production, distribution, and consumption of this rice-based beverage that it makes my head spin. Simply put, sake is made from rice, and the fermentation method brings it closer to beer-making than wine production; however, the resulting beverage tastes closer to wine than beer. The brewing of sake is very precise; each and every step is distinct and basically different from the other. The only simple part of the process is the four basic ingredients used to make it: water, rice, yeast and koji (a mold used to break down rice starches into sugars).

Sake Consumers
Although market research is limited, there is some information that suggests that premium Japanese sake sales have grown at an annual rate of 20 percent for the last four years. According to a study done by SakeOne and Gomberg, Fredrickson & Associates, it was not until 2007 that the sale of premium sake exceeded that of generic (futsu-shu) sake in the US. In Japan, young Japanese drinkers select beer, wine, or spirits, leaving sake consumption to their parents. It is the younger North American market that is increasingly selecting sake as the beverage of choice.

Labor of Love
Sake sommeliers claim that premium Japanese sake is to regular sake what Single Malt Scotch or Agave Tequila is to their cheaper counterparts. Premium Japanese sake brewers are family craftsmen as opposed to large industrial manufacturers and the premium products (Ginjo) are made by hand with little, if any, automation. Premium sake is gluten-free, sulfite free, and kosher and brewing demands that special practices be followed, including higher milling rates, the use of special rice and yeast, and longer fermentation periods. To this day, the premium sake brewery process is labor intensive

Not Much to Do In the Winter
Thousands of years ago the brewing of sake enabled rice farmers to make a living during the colder winter season when the crops were dormant. The sake method was passed on by the master brewer (toji) to his sons (at the time โ€“ only the sons) and each brewery (kura) had its own techniques and recipes. Japanese manhood was often conferred when a Japanese boy trekked to a nearby brewery and became an apprentice. The tradition determined that men in the family spent at least six months at the brewery.

Japanese Consider the Womanโ€™s Touch
Traditionally, it was the men in the community that made and consumed sake. It was not until 1976 at Ischishina, (a brewery in northwestern Japan) that a woman was permitted to become a licensed sake brewer. The exclusion of Japanese women in the culinary industry of the country continues to this day; there are very few female sushi chefs. The tradition claims that women should not handle sushi because their hands are too warm and would ruin the fish.

Only the Best Will Do
Sake sommeliers (or Sake Samurais) have become as important as wine sommeliers at restaurants where sake is gaining importance on the wine and spirits menu. There are only 60 certified master sake sommeliers in the world.

The most expensive sake is Kame no O (Wataribune). It is a dai ginjo sake priced at approximately US$500 for a 720 ml bottle. At the Robataya (East 9th Street, NYC) bottles of (Dreams Come True) sake are available for US$465 per bottle. This premiere sake (distributed by NY Mutual Trading company) is brewed by the Kato Kichibel brewery (Fukui prefecture) and received the first prize for aged sake in the Japanโ€™s National Liqueur Competition (2003). With an alcohol level of 16.9 percent, it is served chilled. This sake has been aged for 5 years and experts find that it speaks of juicy pineapples and mangoes. Famous Japanese celebrities celebrate with this sake after making their dreams come true.

The sake that is frequently available in Japanese restaurants (and served warm) is futsu-shu, often termed industrial-grade table sake. There are 3 premium sakes: junmai, ginjo, and dai ginjo. These sakes have the undesirable portions of rice polished away and with dai ginjo (the most expensive sake) the brewer polishes each grain of rice down to half its original size. Most rice used for sake is crossbred with Kame no O โ€“ a pure breed of rice discovered in Amarune, Yamagat Prefecture approximately 100 years ago. This rice is so important that it has its own theme song.

Selecting Sake
Sake selections are not made by identifying the rice variety or the region where the sake is brewed. The determination of a good/ better/best sake is determined by the degree to which the rice has been polished (genshu, nama, or nigori). The brewer decides if the product is roughly filtered, unpasteurized and freshly bottled (needs refrigeration), or left undiluted and unfiltered (cloudy in appearance).

Now to the Tasting
I was recently invited to experience sake at the residence of the Japanese Ambassador, Shigeyuki Hiroki. Approximately 20 different sakes from various parts of Japan were available for comparing. The sake was served in wine glasses, and the sommeliers providing the introduction to the event encouraged us to look for clarity, sheen, and color; to sniff for bouquet and personality, and to seek subtle nuances on the palate.

My favorites include:

Tatenokawa 50 (Junmai Daiginjo) 15-15 percent alcohol
Established in 1832, Tatenokawa, Inc. boasts a 170-year history in the Shonai region of Yamagata, the breadbasket of Japan. It is bordered by Mt. Chokai to the north and Mt. Gassan to the south. The rice that is planted in May grows in the summer sunlight. It is nurtured with clean river-bed water, and the ears of rice droop heavily in September. This sake is produced under the watchful eye of the Shonai people.

Made from Dewasansan rice this is a fresh and fruity sake that offers a hint of thyme and a slight suggestion of acidity. I could find my way to enjoying this with a salmon souffle or tuna.

Junmai Ginjo Urakasumi Zen
This sake won a silver medal in 2008 and 20ll, Ginjo Section, US National Sake Appraisal.

This sake is brewed using locally-grown Miyagi sake rice and specially raised brewer’s yeast. It can be enjoyed either chilled or warm. I found it very light in color (almost transparent) with petite hints of citrus. Perhaps its timid mouth-feel will blossom when served with steamed or baked salmon.

Yamadanishiki Junmai Daiginjo Urakasumi
This sake won awards in 2009, 2010, and 2011 taking gold and silver medals for Section B of the US National Sake Appraisal event.

The sake is made from high quality Yamada Nishiki rice. It is a subclass of junmai ginjo-shu that is brewed with highly-polished rice. The process is very precise and labor intensive. This sake brings a very intense flavor to the pallet and speaks of flowers such as lilacs and forget-me-nots. Perhaps it will pair well with duck foie gras with country bread plus peaches with almond puree. It might also be delicious with a fresh Bosc pear and a few bites of Port Salut.

Taiheizan (Grand Mountain) Tenko (Heaven and Ingenuity)
Winner of a trophy at the 2009 International Wine Challenge (London), this handmade premium sake is developed in the Kodama Brewery (Akita prefecture). It has a very fruity taste all the way through; think cantaloupe, watermelon, apple, and grapes… It can be served chilled or warm and pairs well with grilled fish as well as lobster with avocado.

Kahori (Aroma) Yamagata Honten
Established in 1875 in Shunan (Yamaguchi prefecture)

Think of the scent of Muscat grapes, lemons, and bananas after a spring rain. A delicate sip brings a mineral dry finish to the palate. Pairs well with white fish ceviche and sashimi.

Sake Discovery
It may be a challenge to visit Japan on a holiday but it is easy to enjoy the culture by sipping sakes with friends and family. To find the sake way through the wine/spirits shop or a restaurant menu, seek the help of the sake sommelier. This is a journey that will definitely have a happy ending.

About the author

Avatar of Linda Hohnholz

Linda Hohnholz

Editor in chief for eTurboNews based in the eTN HQ.

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