Enter Moldova Wine. Move over Greece, Portugal, Italy

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Written by Linda Hohnholz

(eTN) – For those of us who are geographically challenged, the nation of Moldova, shaped like a cluster of grapes, is located in the southeastern part of Europe and borders Ukraine on the east and Rom

(eTN) – For those of us who are geographically challenged, the nation of Moldova, shaped like a cluster of grapes, is located in the southeastern part of Europe and borders Ukraine on the east and Romania on the west. During wars among and between the Romans, Huns, Tatars, Osmans, Hungarians and many others, it was the historical passage between Asia and Europe; many warriors and merchants traipsed through this country as through โ€œGatesโ€ between the Carpathian Mountains and the Black Sea.

With a population of approximately 4 million people, some consider it to be the poorest nation in Europe; however other researchers do not agree. Empirical evidence (i.e., large numbers of banks, well-dressed citizens) suggests that there may be a very lucrative underground economy that is not evidenced through government collected data. What is clear, however, is that 10-12 percent of the national annual budget is derived from the wine industry.

Centuries of Viniculture

Moldova has a long wine history. Archaeological remains identify fossils of Vitis Teutonica vine leaves near the village of Naslavcia that date back approximately 6-25 million years ago. Grapes seeds found near the Varvarovca village date back to 2800 BC, confirm grape cultivation in the region.

Grape growing and wine making between the Nistru and Prut rivers began 4000-5000 years ago and the tradition has survived through peace and war and varying economic and political changes. For example, under Ottoman rule and Islamic law, wine making and consumption was forbidden. Under Russian rule (1812-1991) the wine culture recovered; however, in the mid-1980s Mikhail Gorhbachev, the head of the USSR, prohibited the sale of all alcohol. Vines were destroyed on a massive scale and the wine industry was destroyed.

American Interest in Moldova

In 2005 Moldova ranked 7th in the list of world wine exporters. The country is heavily dependent on wine exports as it is the support system for the entire agriculture sector. In 2009 the country exported $161.4 million in wine according to a report by Moldovaโ€™s economic ministry.

Prior to 2006, Russia purchased over one-third of the wine produced in Moldova. However, as the country tried to move away from Russian influence and toward the European Union, Russia stopped wine imports from Moldova. This was a heavy blow to the economy. To deal with this economically devastating turn of events, smaller wine growers/producers went into bankruptcy while others consolidated and/or went searching for new markets in Europe, the UK, the US and Asia.

Biden/Kerry Toast Moldova

With the goal of encouraging Moldova to hold fast to its European Union objective, US Vice President Joe Biden and US Secretary of State John Kerry brought their โ€œcelebrityโ€ and promises for access to the American marketplace – to this small country.

Moldova Comes to America

Thanks to public and private sector support, wine makers from Moldova have been moving through the import process. They have secured Permanent Normal Trading Regulation (PNTR) status and have had meetings with the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) to learn about labels, advertising, public relations and distribution. The US Agency for International Development (USAID) provided a $150 million fund for investors in Ukraine and Moldova. In 2010 Horizon Capital, an equity investment company, put up $15 million for the purchase the Purcari wine organization.

A Blend of Old and New

The wine industry was revived in 1991 when most of the wineries were privatized and modernized. Ten years later, wineries began to plant European clones of popular varieties and vine nurseries were selling local rootstock in combination with European planting material. Wine makers from Moldova work closely with experts from Italy, France, Australia and New Zealand and are producing young, fruit forward varietals that are internationally popular.

The Republic of Moldova has four wine regions: southern, southeastern, central (or Codru) and northern.

โ€ข Southern area is noted for its red varieties: Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (full bodied with concentrated aroma) plus red dessert wines.

โ€ข The southeastern area is also noted for red varietals: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rara Neagra (rich bouquet with aromas of black currant, violets and oak).

โ€ข The central zone is noted for white wines: Feteasca Alba, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Riesling, Traminer and Aligote (soft, fresh, pronounced floral aroma).

โ€ข The northern area is noted for white varietals: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Traminer, Feteasca Albฤƒ, and Aligotรฉ plus brandy production (Divin).

Moldova Wines. Strong Contender

As soon as a good marketing campaign kicks-in, and channels of distribution are established, winemakers from other countries are going to have to face a new reality; a fresh competitor has entered the ring. At a recent wine tasting held at the Astor Center (New York City), I had the pleasure of being introduced to these excellent wines:

โ€ข Cricova 2007. White Brut Sparkling Wine. Codru. Method Champenoise with a second fermentation in the bottle following cuvee maturation in a horizontal position for 5+ years. Cricova is the second largest wine cellar in Moldova.

– Although the tasting was held a few days ago, I continue to have memories of the Cricova with an eye-catching color of light straw, an aroma of sunflowers combined with a slight hint of citrus, peaches and pineapple…like the warm breath of a lover as their lips gently pass over your cheek. A mere hint of bubbles and clean finishโ€ฆthe memory lasts in the brain and on the tongue. I would keep a chilled bottle around โ€“ always! Perfect for sipping in an elegant garden with a string quartet playing Mozart in the background. Pair with fruits, berries and brie or Queen Elizabeth Crepes filled with sweet strawberries and a spot of vanilla ice cream (from Love Cafรฉ, NYC http://www.lovecafeandbar.com/).

โ€ข Vinaria din Vale 2013. Feteasca Alb. White/Dry. Produced from Feteasca grapes; harvested in the southern region. Feteasca Alba means โ€œwhite maiden.โ€

– Looking carefully and thoughtfully in the glass I see hints of sunshine sparkling along the edges. A quick inhale brings suggestions of grass and fresh hay to the nose. The first sip and I immediately register orange, pineapple, kiwi and green apples โ€“ creating an incredibly pleasant and complex experience on the tongue.

– Perfect to pair with Chilean Sea Bass with garlic, lemon and a touch of honey (from Love Cafรฉ, NYC http://www.lovecafeandbar.com/).

โ€ข Chateau Vartely Traminer 2013. Sec Alb. White/Dry. Produced from Traminer grapes in southern Moldova. Traminer refers to ancient European grape varieties; also a synonym for Gewurztraminer.

– Beautifully golden to the eye, a bit of fresh grass to the nose, and a complex taste of musk/oak and fresh earth. Delightful in its unusual palate sensation. Pair with a savory Crepe filled with mussels, scallops, sautรฉed shrimp and crab meat topped with remoulade (from Love Cafรฉ, NYC http://www.lovecafeandbar.com/).

โ€ข Bostavan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon via Etulia Reserve. Red/Dry; aged for 12 months in oak barrels. The etulia micro zone is located in the southern part of Moldova near to the Danube Delta and the geography lends itself to producing excellent red wines. The vineyards, located on hills, allow maximum sunlight exposure.

– To the eye – deep purple striding off to black velvet. The tantalizing aroma brings me quickly to cinnamon and spices and black currants, topping off with ripening cherries. The velvety smooth taste begs to be paired with Stuffed Babbage with pork and chicken seasoned with spices and topped with sour cream or Veal Schnitzel sprinkled with fresh dill (Love Cafรฉ/NYChttp://www.lovecafeandbar.com/ ).

โ€ข Vinaria Pucari 2010 Negru de Purcari. Red/Dry from Valul Lui Traian.

– Fabulously beautiful in the glassโ€ฆhints of royal velvet aging on castle chairs against a background of wall-hung tapestries. To the nose a dense/intense aroma of cherries, old rose petals; to the palette a joy of fruit and cherries that linger โ€“ for a delicious moment โ€“ before disappearing forever.

– Pair with Hungarian Goulash made with pork chunks slowly stewed in a large pot with onions, plums, garlic, bell peppers, carrots, wine and Hungarian paprika or Beef Stroganoff made with tender beef strips, mushrooms and cream sauce (from Love Cafรฉ/NYC http://www.lovecafeandbar.com/).

Ask for Moldova Wines

The black chernozem (humus โ€“ rich soil) of Moldova, combined with a knowledge of wine making that looks back to the beginning of history, combined a quest for excellence in the 21st competitive wine marketplace โ€“ makes this small country a big contender for the global wine consumer. Keep asking local wine merchants for the wines of Moldova. If there is enough demand โ€“ we will soon find it on local shelves and restaurant wine lists.

For more information, go to: www.wineofmoldova.com , www.lovecafeandbar.com

About the author

Avatar of Linda Hohnholz

Linda Hohnholz

Editor in chief for eTurboNews based in the eTN HQ.

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